Dress designer Nikki Atkinson calls Merino wool a “luxury fibre” and is hoping her use of the fabric in wedding gowns will launch a similar trend overseas.

The winner of South Australia’s AgriFutures Rural Women’s Award has ambitions to show her Horrocks Vale Collections on the catwalks of New York, Paris and Dubai.

However, she is not aiming to dominate a niche market for wool wedding gowns.

She wants other bridal houses to use the fine wool for their own collections to bring attention to the fabric and shift its use into the mainstream.

In Australia, where summer brides tend toward polyester crepe or pure silk, there is also a need to change perceptions of wool.

“If you’re a bride wearing a Merino wool wedding dress on a 40-degree day, then you’re not going to have sweat dripping down your back, because it’ll take the heat away from you,” Atkinson said.

“Whereas with polyester and other fossil fuel fabrics, you sweat – they’re plastic, so they actually keep the heat in.”

Conversely, on a cold day Merino wool will keep the warmth in, and there is no scratchiness on the skin, as the processing technology evolved in the 90s to significantly improve the comfort factor.

“If you’re wearing something that’s itchy and scratching, it’s generally not Australian merino wool,” Atkinson said.

Nikki Atkinson is shaking up the wedding gown industry. Photo: Supplied

Her ultimate aim is to build demand for Australia’s “completely underrated” Merino wool to benefit the pastoralists, graziers, farmers and their families.

“Being married to a grazier, I know they work so bloody hard, and it takes generations to get the perfect fibre,” she said.

“They need to be compensated considerably for their hard work and effort and for generations of work, too.”

She and her husband Dallas Lines run 5000 Merinos on their farm at Wilmington in South Australia’s mid north.

Before the drought that number was around 8000 and they are gradually building up the flock numbers again.

It takes roughly one kilo of fleece to produce each metre of fabric, with a typical gown using around five metres.

Atkinson plans to introduce materials traceability to her gowns to add another layer of uniqueness to her label’s story.

Photo: Supplied

Before marriage, she co-owned a bridal shop, but the seed for her current venture was planted while on the farm twenty years ago.

A friend from a property north of Broken Hill was looking for a wedding dress made in wool, but was unable to find anything suitable.

“That has never left me because I have always had this absolute love and passion for wool,” Atkinson said.

“Wool is just so easy to work with, it flows beautifully.”

AgriFutures Australia managing director John Harvey said women like Atkinson “have the vision to transform the entire industry for generations to come”.

“Nikki is a prime example of making impactful industry-wide change while living and working in rural and regional Australia, by understanding the work behind producing extra-fine Merino fibre and flock, and the value of sustainable, slow, Australian-made fashion,” Harvey said.

Minister for Primary Industries and Regional Development Clare Scriven also praised Atkinson’s achievements.

“I congratulate Nikki Atkinson for being selected as South Australia’s winner of the 2024 AgriFutures Rural Women’s Award,” Scriven said.

“Her work in the sustainable fashion space is creative, innovative and inspiring.”

The prize is a $15,000 Westpac grant to support the business, professional development opportunities and access to alumni networks.

Westpac regional general manager regional & agribusiness for South Australia Les Ryan also congratulated her on being the state finalist.

“These awards not only showcase the many different leadership experiences of these accomplished women, but they demonstrate to the greater business community ‘what’s possible’ in rural Australia,” Ryan said.

Atkinson will use the grant to exhibit at the Harrogate Fashion Week in London, an industry event that attracts more than 8000 buyers from around the world.

Some of the money will also be used to employ a PR company to “put Horrocks Vale Collections on the right platforms and in front of the right eyes”.

Raising awareness among brides-to-be via fashion influencers is key to building demand.

Atkinson said she is in good company with the other award nominees, with “loads of women coming through businesses that are very innovative and very different”.

The AgriFutures Rural Women’s Award is recognised as Australia’s leading accolade acknowledging and supporting the essential role women play in rural industries, businesses, and communities.

Harvey said there was a flow-on effect from winning.

“[The award] provides forward-thinking female leaders working in rural, regional, and remote communities like Nikki with the support and leadership skills to pursue projects that make a real difference,” Harvey said.

Atkinson will represent the state at the 2024 AgriFutures Rural Women’s Award Gala Dinner and National Announcement in Canberra later in the year.

The national winner will be awarded an additional $20,000 Westpac grant and the national runner-up will receive a $15,000 Westpac grant.