The 1930s and ’40s were a great period for architecture, with grandiose buildings heavily influenced by the Art Deco and Palazzo styles, and innovations in construction allowing architects to create some pretty spectacular buildings, including Elder House, here in Adelaide. It may now be dwarfed by higher-rise buildings erected in the decades that followed, but Elder House’s Palazzo styling, including a meticulously formed stone façade and the bold use of locally sourced granite in the vast entrance lobby, created a shining example of a new era of building.

Almost a century later, we’re seated in Umaii, a new Japanese restaurant that occupies a tenancy that has been carved out of that same lofty entrance space.

In a solid attempt to give the venue a contemporary Japanese feel, the granite walls have been all but covered by white Shoji screening. Art Deco ceiling features are interrupted by an exposed metal air-conditioning vent suspended at the centre of the room. Stone-tiled floors are now hidden beneath a dark plush carpet, and the super-modern use of concrete bars and planters, sleek minimalist furnishings, and an exposed corner kitchen lined with shiny white tiles are a stark contrast to its original composition.

It’s a shame that the designers haven’t been more sympathetic with the original features here, but this is a restaurant review, so let’s try to get comfortable on this extremely firm booth seating and get on to the food.

Umaii’s interior fit-out. Supplied image

To start it’s ora king salmon, prepared tataki style – a technique where the fillet is seared ever so slightly on the outside and then sliced to expose a still raw centre. Here, pieces are then arranged over a plate of ponzu dressing and wakame-infused sesame oil. A dome of fresh wasabi allows you to choose your level of heat by mixing it into the (already delicious) sauce or by adding a bit to each bite. This is the first example of quality produce used to create a simple but spectacular Japanese classic.

Next, we take a recommendation from the staff to try the skewers. The first is nicely cooked yakiton pork belly. Each skewer is coated in a pungent but tasty kimchi paste and then wrapped in individual oak lettuce leaves. Following directions to remove the pork from the stick and wrap it in the lettuce is a bit fiddly, but worth it for the bites that follow. There are some sesame seeds and diced spring onions in the mix, but the kimchi paste offers the main flavour profile here.

Following this are corn skewers: while I didn’t expect a half-cob on a stick as a Japanese dish to land on the table, I’m happy it’s here. A generous coat of what Umaii calls teri-mayo and a shichimi spice mix combine to create some very punchy flavour. Comté cheese finely grated on top melts to add to the creamy sauce concoction.

Corn skewers at Umaii. Supplied image

Next, we’re onto the mains, beginning with yuan yaki. This is duck, but not like any I’ve tried before. A single breast has been seared, with its skin rendered to leave only the slightest gelatinous layer of fat between it and tender, juicy slices of meat. The duck sits on a saucy mashed pumpkin and miso (amazing) that is surrounded by a translucent pool of soy, mirin, and sake-based sauce – a fairly typical Japanese blend that provides some balanced flavour elements. On top is an XO paste. These three different sauce elements could be at risk of competing, or outshining the duck itself, but they elevate the whole thing.

Soba noodles at Umaii. Supplied image

A cold soba noodle dish is a refreshing contrast. This arrives looking akin to ramen, minus the soup, with an arrangement of toppings offering a beautiful array of colour and brightness, and most importantly, flavour. The earthy, lightly nutty and dense soba noodles form a base for a delicately cooked and well-formed onsen egg, shredded nori, fresh chopped chives and some nearly transparent crispy rice wafers. However, it’s a spicy mushroom and eggplant condiment that is the highlight here. The dish is another example of a kitchen that clearly uses the best produce and ingredients and understands how to make flavours sing.

And while the harmony between the original building and new interior might not work quite as well, I’m ready to forgive them. With food like this, and some very sleek and affable service from a delightful, mainly Japanese staff, Umaii has all the ingredients that’ll put it high on my recommendation list.

Umaii

27 Currie Street, Adelaide
OPEN: Monday – Thursday 12-2.30pm and 5-9.30pm; Friday-Saturday 12-2.30pm and 5-10pm
umaii.com.au
(08) 7093 1388