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The Forager podcast: The golden era of South Australian restaurants

SA Food Month

What marked the golden era of South Australian dining and are we in the midst of a new one? In our latest The Forager podcast, Adelaide’s most experienced restaurant critic, Nigel Hopkins, and chef Cath Kerry – both of whom were deeply involved in the golden era – reminisce and look forward.

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Hopkins, long-term food writer, and Kerry, one-time chef at legendary restaurant The Bridgewater Mill, were in the thick of one of the most significant eras in South Australian food, which ran from the 1980s into the early 1990s.

As Hopkins wrote for InDaily in this landmark piece on South Australian restaurants:

“Remember Phillip Searle and Barry Ross’s Possums, Lew Kathreptis at Mezes, Ann Oliver at Mistress Augustine’s, Urs Inauen at Fleurieu (named by one hardened Melbourne critic as the best hotel restaurant in Australia), Cheong Liew at Neddy’s, Maggie Beer at the Pheasant Farm, Cath Kerry at Petaluma/Bridgewater Mill, GloBo’s and Duthy’s, Jarmers, and Mandarin Duck?

“This is a list of exceptional restaurants that turned out menu after menu of stellar new dishes that soon had us wondering if perhaps we’d stumbled on a definitive ‘Australian cuisine’ after all.

“The sad fact is that almost none of them remain open. Most of the chefs who started them have either left Adelaide or the restaurant business.”

What happened and how do contemporary restaurants stack up? Listen below to the fascinating discussion.

Check in to The Forager each week in July for new episodes of the podcast, produced for Solstice Media by The Message Pod.

You can also find The Forager on Apple Podcasts or Spotify.


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