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Vietnam’s Hoi An exudes graceful charm

Jul 09, 2015
Pretty Hoi An sits beside the Thu Bon river. Photo: Amanda McInerney

Pretty Hoi An sits beside the Thu Bon river. Photo: Amanda McInerney

Now that we’ve been there, I’m a little disappointed that it took us so long to visit Vietnam, but I suppose kids, dogs, horses and a farm are all fairly effective brakes on one’s travelling plans.

And while, once I got there, I had every intention of lying around in the resort, the Han Market at Da Nang was not the only place I visited. Loads of friends told me I just had to get to the pretty town of Hoi An. So I did.

One of the town's charming old buildings.

One of the town’s charming old buildings.

Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hoi An was a major trading port back in the 15th century. Sitting beside the placidly rolling Thu Bon river, the city has managed to retain the graceful charm of its past, while avoiding the frantic traffic that one finds elsewhere in Vietnam.

The name Hoi An means “peaceful meeting place” and nothing could be more apt for this quietly elegant town which seems almost dozy after the wild streets of Da Nang.

Here, you can walk the streets without fear of being knocked over and, if the heat proves a little too tiresome, there are plenty of cafes and restaurants to drop into. In fact, we had some of the best food we ate in Vietnam in one or two of these spots.

We had lunch in Hoi An twice – once in the Morning Glory and once in the Mermaid. Both were highly recommended to us and served exceptionally fresh food at outrageously cheap prices. We fed ourselves handsomely and enjoyed large, icy cold beers for less than $25 for the two of us.

Of course, there are also the street-food vendors who, like the rest of the populace, were among the friendliest and most good-natured people I have ever come across.

Like the rest of the country, Hoi An is hot and steamy, but remarkably clean. It seems to have escaped the ravages of water and air pollution that curse many other Asian cities.

We were staying about a 40-minute drive away, in Da Nang, but here’s plenty to do in Hoi An, so next time I’d aim to spend a few days in the town where there are any number of B&Bs, guesthouses or hotels.

A street-food vendor in Hoi An.

A street-food vendor in Hoi An.

Several different cooking schools hold classes for tourists in the town, and if you are into shopping, Hoi An is also known for its low-cost tailors and shoe-makers. Take favourite clothes to be copied or pick something on the spot and it can be finished and delivered in a magically short amount of time – however, it does pay to get a recommendation from someone to ensure reasonable-quality workmanship.

If just wandering the pretty streets and stopping periodically to refresh yourself doesn’t appeal, it’s simple and cheap to get out of the old quarter and explore the region by bicycle, motorcycle or kayak, alone or with a tour group. There are plenty of small shops offering tours all around the town.

The Thu Bon river is still essential for food and transport, so, for the more lethargic among us (yes, I’m including myself there), a languid boat ride up the river is the perfect way to watch local life while staying in a more relaxed zone.

This ornate bridge typifies the town's elegance.

This ornate bridge typifies the town’s elegance.

Getting there

Direct flights are available from Sydney and Melbourne to Vietnam’s Ho Chi Minh City flying Qantas, Virgin Australia and Vietnam Airlines. Da Nang is about 14.5 hours’ drive north of Ho Chi Minh City and 13 hours south of Hanoi, and can be reached by bus, train or plane. Taxis and buses are available for the 43-minute trip between Da Nang and Hoi An.

South Australian writer Amanda McInerney writes about travel and food on her Lambs’ Ears & Honey blog.

 

 

 

 

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