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The Forager: New dawn for Rising Sun

Apr 22, 2015
Grant Goodall is ready to take on The Rising Sun Inn. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Grant Goodall is ready to take on The Rising Sun Inn. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

In this week’s column: A new horizon for an old pub, another small city bar planned, dining with the Henschkes, autumn treats, and a long-awaited cellar door for the Barossa.

Historic hotel changes hands

Ownership of The Rising Sun Inn at Kensington is set to change once again, ringing a new chapter for the historic property.

If all the paperwork goes through this week, tourism and hospitality veteran Grant Goodall will take over the reins from owner/chef Tom Savis, who has been running the Inn as a boutique restaurant and bar for the past eight years.

Goodall – “an Adelaide boy” – has recently moved back to the city with his family after a stint based in Sydney as the CEO of Golden Chain Motels Australasia and Pacific.

After 28 years in the tourism and hospitality industry, he says he sees The Rising Sun as a great opportunity.

“The family were keen to come back to Adelaide and when the opportunity came up just over a year ago, my wife and I realised it is something we’ve always wanted to do,” Goodall says.

“Everyone has a connection to The Rising Sun – I used to come here in my university days, my wife had her 21st here, Rising Sun Pictures had its first meeting here and named itself after the pub – very few people don’t know it.”

Goodall plans to continue the work of Savis, retaining current staff and running the Inn as a restaurant and bar, but “fine-tuning and improving and marketing the venue more, in order to bring in some new patrons”.

A challenge for the tiny Inn will be how to accommodate new patrons, but he says there’s plenty of room.

“The Rising Sun Inn’s small size is part of its charm. We weren’t interested in running a big pub; we’re not interested in the pokies, The Rising Sun’s quaintness, history and charm are all part of the attraction.

“I’m going to be front-of-House, but we’re currently looking for a replacement chef.”

Goodall added that he’s considering bringing back the jars of lollies that were a feature during the 1980s.

The Rising Sun Inn is open from for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.

Brick City the latest small bar

Another historic space about to be given new life is on the corner of Grenfell Street and Coromandel Place in the city.

An application for a small-venue licence with extended trading has been made to the Liquor and Gambling Commission by Brenton Agars under the name of SAB Boys Union Pty Ltd.

The new venue will be called Brick City Bar, after the character of Coromandel Place, which is occupied by several old red-brick and bluestone buildings, including The Historian hotel.

Dinner with the Henschkes

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Winemaker Stephen Henschke. Photo: supplied

InDaily has partnered with the Hill of Grace Restaurant at Adelaide Oval to offer readers an exclusive preview of the new autumn/winter menu matched to wines personally selected by Stephen Henschke.

Five dishes will be presented by head chef Dennis Leslie, with Stephen and Prue Henschke joining guests for the intimate dinner tomorrow night (April 23).

The wine list includes the following premium and museum Henschke wines:

Amuse bouche / MD Johanne Ida Selma Blanc de Noir
Kinilaw lobster / 2005 & 2012 Croft Chardonnay
Ginataan quail / 2000 & 2013 Joseph Hill Gewürztraminer
Grilled betamax / 2013 Johann’s Garden Grenache
Grilled wagyu beef flank / 2000 Hill of Grace Shiraz
Barossa Valley Cheese Co Le Petit Prince / 2013 Noble Gewürztraminer
Haighs Chocolates petit fours.

“It’s wonderful to see Dennis’ enormous creativity shine through with the Hill of Grace Restaurant menu,” says Henschke.

“Dennis’ menu has provided some fun in matching our Henschke wines, especially with two very different styles of aromatic gewürztraminer, our savoury grenache and spicy, elegant Hill of Grace shiraz.”

InDaily editor David Washington and publisher Amanda Pepe will host the exclusive event. Tickets are $195 per head. A limited number of tickets are still available. For bookings call 8205 4777.

Celsius closes

Award-winning fine diner Celsius restaurant sadly closed its doors on the weekend after five years in business.

Chef Ayhan Erkoc, who owned the Gouger Street restaurant with his brother Kasim, has confirmed the business has gone into liquidation.

The chef’s family, which is in the business of market gardening near Murray Bridge, used to grow and supply Erkoc with the fresh baby herbs, vegetables and flowers that were part of his signature style.

The French Tarte

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Tanya Cobby Smith. Photo: supplied

Tanya Cobby Smith is a true foodie, self-taught and driven by her passion for French food. During business hours, Cobby Smith works as a compliance officer in a local stockbroking firm, but after hours she’s making sweet and savoury treats for her monthly market stall  The French Tarte at the Stirling Market.

Using seasonal local produce, Cobby Smith produces rustic French sweet and savoury tarts, such as galettes, tarte tatins and cakes, including the famous Canele de Bordeaux with their tender custard centre and caramelised crust which are made in traditional copper moulds she bought overseas many years ago.

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Canele de Bordeaux. Photo: supplied

“Now that the weather is cooler, I will be re-introducing the canele. I love the canele because they are not so sweet,” she says.

“Also this Sunday I will be moving away from stone fruit and berries and focusing on using produce around in autumn, such as pears, quinces, rhubarb and chestnuts.

“I will use pears poached in cinnamon and vanilla to make pear and almond tarts; the quinces I cook in a slow oven for 12 hours – they turn an amazing shade of red – to make quince and frangipane tarts; for the chestnuts I’m planning on some chocolate and chestnut tarts; and there are a few plums still around so I’m thinking of doing a plum and raspberry gluten-free tart.

“I will also be doing large apple and rhubarb crumbles, sweet and savoury galettes – rhubarb and strawberry, and roasted vegetable and fetta – as well as my chocolate panforte and chocolate salted caramel truffles.

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Chocolate and hazelnut panforte. Photo supplied

Completely self-taught, Cobby Smith derives her inspiration from Stephanie Alexander.

“I make everything from scratch. I used to pick a lot of the fruit myself, but now I buy it from local Hills producers and the Adelaide Central Market.”

See The French Tarte’s Facebook page for upcoming workshops.

What’s in a name?

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The recently opened Basedow’s cellar door at Tanunda. Photo supplied

After one of the Barossa region’s oldest wine labels was returned to its rightful custodians last year, the Basedow brothers celebrated their second vintage with the opening of their Tanunda cellar door in January.

Peter, Michael and Richard Basedow represent the fifth generation of a family which has contributed enormously to South Australia’s winemaking heritage, including helping to establish Roseworthy Agricultural College, the construction of Chateau Tanunda and the founding of Basedow’s wines.

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The Basedow boys’ father, John, took over the running of the family winery in 1953, winning the prestigious Jimmy Watson trophy before passing away in 1970, aged 49, leaving a young wife (Pauline) and his three sons. The winery was then sold to outside interests and the brand ended up based in the Hunter Valley.

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Peter, Richard and Michael Basedow. Photo: supplied

When the Basedown boys were old enough to make wine themselves, they no longer had access to the family wine label, nor the means to purchase it back, so in 2001 they started their own label, B3.

“At that time we would have loved to regain the Basedow’s label, but in 2000 it had so much stock and we didn’t have enough money to buy it,” explains Richard, who makes the wines, assisted by consultant winemaker and vigneron Rob Gibson.

In 2014, the Basedow boys were able to buy back their family brand.

“Fourteen years later, to be the custodians of our name again is fantastic,” Richard says.

“We’ve since made two 2012 reds (a Shiraz and a Cabernet Merlot) and a 2014 Village White – it’s the same as the old Basedow’s White Burgundy which used to sell half a million cases back in the 1980s. Mum is very proud.”

At the Basedow’s cellar door, those wines are available for tasting as well, as their premium B3 wines. Cheese platters and ploughmans’ lunches are also available.

“The Jimmy Watson is still around as a prestigious wine trophy awarded to the best one-year-old red at the Melbourne wine show – we will endeavour to match father’s abilities.”

Baron of Barossa

Another name steeped in South Australian winemaking history is that of Penfold’s chief winemaker Peter Gago, who was inducted as a Baron of the Barossa last week at the 2015 Barossa Vintage Festival.

Founded in 1975, the Barons of the Barossa is a wine fraternity which supports Barossa wine, viticulture, gastronomy, heritage and the arts. Membership of the exclusive group is offered to those who have made an outstanding contribution to the Barossa region.

“I’m incredibly proud to be anointed as a Baron of the Barossa – to help represent a region which continues to play a critical role in the global advancement and appreciation of South Australian wine,” says Gago.

This week at the Adelaide Farmers’ Market

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Locally produced pomegranates. Photo: supplied

Pomegranate trees are grown across South Australia, with fruit from the Adelaide Hills, the Riverland and Gawler currently in season and available at the Adelaide Showground Farmers’ Market.

The pomegranate is thought to originate from the Middle East and offers a range of health benefits. To use the fruit, cut it open and scoop out the seeds to add flavour to a range of cooked dishes and salads, or to include in juices or smoothies.

Adelaide Farmers’ Market stallholders Otherwood Orchards, B&A Andonopoulos and The Food Forest will be selling pomegranates this Sunday from 9am at the Adelaide Showgrounds.

Parcel Nest takes the pain out of wine deliveries

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The letter box that can take delivery of two cartons of wine. Photo: supplied

Parcel Nest – described as a “21st-century post box” ideal for wine deliveries – is now on the market thanks to inventors Troy Forrest and Andrew Smith.

“I was frustrated by the number of futile deliveries I received,” Forrest says. “It was annoying to find those ‘sorry we missed you’ slips in the mailbox or under the door, telling me that I had to go to a depot to pick up a parcel.

“I thought, in a world where I can buy a couple of cartons of Shiraz from McLaren Vale, why can’t I get them delivered to my front door?”

Troy and business partner Smith worked closely with local industrial designer Andrew Rogers to come up with a design that was weather and burglar-resistant.

“We came up with the idea of a one-way entry system … the parcel goes in but can’t come out until you unlock your Parcel Nest,” Troy says.

Parcel Nest is big enough to hold two cartons of wine and is available online. – Alison Wright

What’s on?

Coriole Autumn Degustation – May 1
Join Coriole head chef Tom Reid for a six-course degustation from the Courtyard Restaurant autumn menu matched to Coriole wines. Canapes of sour kohlrabi, puffed pork skin and wild radish rabe will be served with 2013 bottle-fermented Prosecco from 6pm, followed by kingfish and 2010 ‘Optimist’ Reserve Chenin Blanc, smoked tommy ruffs served with 2013 Barbera, Coorong Angus Brisket served with 1990 Shiraz, boudin noir served with 2007 Vita Sangiovese, and iced white chocolate parfait with 2013 Mistelle fortified Chenin Blanc. Tickets are $125 per person. For bookings phone 8323 8305.

Kangaroo Island Feastival – May 1 to 8
Kangaroo Island Feastival is an opportunity to experience the island’s pristine food and wine, meet the producers, taste the produce and get to know some of the locals at a collection of pop-up and ticketed events, but you’ll need to arrange transport and accommodation. All ticket purchases, accommodation, travel and event packages can be purchased here.

Ginza Miyako Mother’s Day High Tea – May 10

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Mother’s Day High Tea at Ginza Miyako. Photo: Iris Guo

Adelaide’s first and only Japanese-French fusion high tea will be served at Ginza Miyako Japanese Restaurant this Mother’s Day in the Stamford Plaza Hotel. Complementary sparkling wine on arrival will be followed by unique Japanese sweets and savouries such as assorted sashimi and sushi, tempura prawns, black sesame crème brulee, macha tiramisu, mini fruit tarts, and unlimited espresso coffee and tea. Cost is $45 for adults and $25 for children. Bookings essential on 8221 6147.

Sea and Vines Festival – June 5 to 8
Dozens of parties, degustations, rare tastings, master-classes and other carefully selected celebrations will be held at McLaren Vale’s cellar doors and wineries from June 5-8 in what will be the 23rd year of the Sea and Vines Festival. Relish events include a 10-course Thai banquet at Woodstock, the ‘Church Block Sunday Service’ with Fino at Wirra Wirra, and the Compadres’ Fiesta which brings together neighbouring wineries d’Arenberg and SC Pannell. Sunday ‘experiences’ include a great day of food, wine and music across three different wineries. And Monday ‘Zest’ events are all family-friendly with free entry. Program details can be found here.

 

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