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Lunch review: Food court favourites

Jan 16, 2015

Food snobs look away now.

Or perhaps not. Because despite the fact that food courts can sometimes resemble primate feedlots, they meet several prerequisites for a standard working weekday lunch – speed, low cost and, if you’re prepared to hunt for it, pretty decent food.

Granted. Sometimes you have to look very hard.

I didn’t always put caveats on food-court dining. One of the great joys of my 1980s Adelaide youth was the subterranean food court in the long-defunct Gallerie Shopping Centre, which ran between Gawler Place and the John Martin’s basement.

It was here that I had my first (and last) orange-flavoured milkshake and first (but certainly not last) chips sprinkled in flavoured salt. The outlet was “Orange Julius”, defined by its counter-front decorated with plastic oranges. Elsewhere in the bustling food court you could get the roast of the day, pizza by the slice or even, if you were an adventurous diner, chicken cacciatore.

These were the early years of the food court concept, which has now grown to cover countless hectares of shopping centre real estate in Adelaide’s CBD and the suburban shopping malls.

For some people, they’re a recipe for indigestion: windowless, noisy, crowded, and packed with fast-food franchises and bain-maries cradling luke-warm food of indeterminate age.

However, there are some places worth visiting for a cheap and satisfying lunch – if not for the ambience.

I have a few rules: avoid the big chains (and, for our purposes here, no-one wants a review of Maccas or Oporto); choose a place with a line-up (then you can be reasonably certain the food is being turned over); and favour places that cook to order (for obvious reasons).

Here are a few of our favourites. Join the discussion in our comments section to add your own discoveries.

Soonta – 77 food court, Rundle Place

Soonta was in the vanguard of the cheap but very fresh Vietnamese lunch revival a few years ago.

This outlet, in the back corner of the weirdly named food court beneath Harris Scarfe, usually has long lines at lunch – a very good sign. Don’t worry, though – the efficient staff get through the orders quickly.

Choose from a banh mi (Vietnamese roll), cold rolls, a noodle salad or, my pick, the straight salad (available in three different varieties).

The veges are crunchy and fresh, and you can choose from a wide variety of sauces and well-cooked proteins (although why would any non-vegetarian bypass the crispy roast pork?).

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The salad will set you back $8.50. Bargain. I’ve been known to request “double meat” for a small extra charge.

Soonta also has several stand-alone street outlets in the city – on James Place and Waymouth Street.

BB Steak House – Southern Cross Arcade food court

For something a bit classy (but still cheap), this grill joint cooks to order – steaks, chicken, a nice pork belly (with sticky sweet sauce), and steak sandwiches.

The meals are substantial – including crisp, fresh salad – and average around the $10 mark.

As far as food-court dining goes, this is the Ritz. Which is appropriate, as the sign boasts that the chef used to cook at a five-star hotel.

Ricky’s Kitchen – Southern Cross Arcade food court

Ricky’s is an old favourite of many Adelaide food-court veterans, and for good reason.

Try one of the chicken or duck dishes with rice – tender meat, vibrant sauces, and fluffy rice make a very satisfying lunch.

[At the other end of the Mall, you can get a decent chicken rice at Singma Delights in the Renaissance food court. They even offer you a choice of breast or thigh (no contest – it’s the thigh every time).]

Your choice?

Join the comments below to add your pick of Adelaide’s food court outlets.

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