Lucky Cat is a casual and chic dumpling bar much in the same vein as those that populate the laneways and backstreets of Sydney and Melbourne.
Formerly known as Suzie Wong’s, it is still run by Nina (also known as Lolita), yet the recent reinvention has changed the focus – but not the vibe.
Situated along Port Road, it is in an area more accustomed to theatre type crowds from the nearby Entertainment Centre.
Suzie Wong’s was ahead of the pack in attempting to create a place not reliant on these festival crowds and Lucky Cat goes a step further.
It is busy on this early mid-week night, where upon arrival, we are greeted at the door and seated up the back at a long communal table.
The room is split level. The front, set up for smaller groups in a more intimate setting with window booths,while the back of the room is for larger groups with long and low communal-style tables surrounded by small red stools.
A scarlet-backlit bar runs along the wall, from which one can order a range of Asian styled martinis. Bar staff are kept busy the entire night.
Lucky Cat’s setting is Asian inspired, dimly lit with a vivid theme of red. Lanterns hang from the ceiling while a large golden Chinese cat waves its plastic paw unendingly. The overall feel is very relaxed and the crowd is hip and young.
The menu is small and well-balanced consisting of about 16 selections of dim sum priced individually from $6.80 to $13.80. There is also a large selection of vegan dishes.
We order a range of steamed and fried options including the hallmark dish – the salt and pepper tentacles.
Made for easy sharing, the food comes out relatively fast, dish after dish placed on the long table.
It is simple, tasty and pleasing. The dumplings, which arrive in bamboo steamers, do appear hand made withthe translucent wrappers holding noticeably large chunks of prawn and/or scallop.
Shallot pancakes are more shallot, less pastry which is welcome and the garlic and chilli long beans are perfectly seasoned and still crisp. The tentacles are tender, with a crisp and salty batter carrying a nice heat.
The thrice cooked pork is delicate and sweet, extremely rich yet satisfying, while the egg fried rice soaks up all the wonderful Asian sauces at the bottom of the bowl bringing the dishes together.
The food is a notch above the many Gouger Street variations of yum cha and remarkably, similarly priced.
Service is personable. Nina is a bubbly and lively character, her comforting presence and bright smile ensures people enjoy themselves.
Suzie Wong’s was often described as “eccentric”, which is a nice way of saying chaotic. Lucky Cat’s make over has changed this and given it a much-needed focus.
The dum sum is delicious, can be enjoyed quickly or over a long period of time and the drinks list is remarkably cheap and well matched.
It makes much more sense than the previous menu which offered bread and butter pudding next to cabbage rolls, goulash and Nutella crepes.
It can be the start of a night out before heading to a show at The Gov, Holden Street Theatres, or the Entertainment Centre, or you can settle down for a longer stay and work your way through the novel list of martinis.
Lucky Cat is quaint, cool and worth stepping out of the Gouger Street comfort zone and taking a tram ride to Port Road.
Four out of five
Lucky Cat
120 Port Road, Hindmarsh
Open: Lunch Wednesday-Friday; dinner Wednesday-Saturday
