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Restaurant review: Concubine

May 16, 2014
Gouger Street's Concubine restaurant.

Gouger Street's Concubine restaurant.

In an area dominated by Chinese restaurants of all persuasions, Concubine manages to stand out.

Set at the trendy end of Gouger Street, next to Mesa Lunga and Sangria Bar, it has enjoyed a long-time reputation as Adelaide’s most upmarket Chinese restaurant.

The setting is that of a fine-dining restaurant; there are no fish tanks, there are no lazy Susans. Tablecloths are ironed flat, glasses are polished, napkins are folded and staff are dressed in black.

The Oriental-style fit-out is a bit kooky in places yet the vivid colours give it a genuine Asian feel. Upstairs rooms offer privacy for larger groups while downstairs provides several long benches for communal  dining and smaller tables for a more intimate occasion.

Concubine has a long and intricate menu, split into entrées, noodles, mains and sides. From the very beginning – and to its great credit – the kitchen has always  used a host of South Australian ingredients.

The favourites are there, from shallot pancakes and san choi bao to pad thai, kung pao chicken, and sweet and sour pork. However, these aren’t the same kind of dishes you would be served at a suburban Chinese takeaway.

The wine list is well priced, with most bottles sitting below the $50 mark, and BYO is also offered.

The restaurant offers a choice of banquets for groups, which we decide to do this busy evening.

The Lotus banquet, priced at $45 a head, begins with prawn and chive dumplings, served in a pool of soy and chilli. They are among the best to be had in Adelaide; large chunks of juicy prawn are encased in delicate wonton, with the salt from the soy and a kick of chilli making it something special.

Next is crispy squid with an apple salad and the chicken san choi bao. The squid is melt-in-the-mouth good, with crisp apple and fine slivers of chilli adding contrast. The san choi bao is, as always, messy but the salty mince and freshness of the lettuce is a delicious contrast.

That is just the beginning: salt and pepper prawns, a beef curry with potato, “mahjong” crispy chicken, sweet and sour pork loin, and a “BBC” arrive at the table, all served with fried rice.

The beef curry is rich and sweet, the tender chunks of beef contrasting with the crunch of peanut. The salt and pepper prawns are large, juicy and delicately battered, while the chicken is a favourite at our table, with the crisp pieces gaining a flavour boost from dark, oyster-style sauce and fresh herbs.

The food is as good to look at as it is to eat: vibrant colours of red chilli, dark sauces and fresh green herbs add to the crisp vegetables that make up most dishes.

Service on this busy night is a little overwhelmed but even then, the staff work hard and apologise if they feel attention has been lacking. In a way it adds to the atmosphere, which although it isn’t quite relaxing, is still enjoyable – much like a weekend café.

Main dishes cost on average about $22 or $23 which makes the banquet amazing value at $45 per head, especially considering the volume and variety of quality dishes.

Where other Chinese restaurants take low-cost ingredients and turn them into something delicious, Concubine begins with top notch produce and works around it.

Although there is most definitely cheaper Chinese to be had in the area, you will not find better.

Concubine knows its market, understands its customers and delivers in spades.

Four out of five.

4

 

 

Concubine

132 Gouger Street, Adelaide
Tel: 08 8212 8288

Mon – closed
Tuesday to Friday and Sunday Lunch: noon – 2pm
Dinner : 6pm – 10pm
Saturday Dinner : 6pm – 10pm

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