Latvia is a tiny country in the Baltic region of Northern Europe – it is almost landlocked by Estonia, Lithuania, Russia and Belarus, if not for a stretch of coastline along the Baltic sea that faces west to Sweden.

Historically a mainly agrarian society, Latvians lived off the land, growing and preserving as much food as possible. Like their neighbours in the Baltic states and Scandinavia, potatoes, beetroot, smoked fish, cabbage, pickles, sausage and rye bread were the staples which sustained them, creating similar dishes across the borders, but each with a character unique to their own country and kin.

After Nazi Germany and Soviet occupation during and following the Second World War, more than 10,000 Latvians migrated to Australia, with around 1,500 of that group settling in Adelaide where they have continued to preserve a strong food culture, sharing traditions and family recipes.

Inga Perkons-Grauze is a descendant of that group and The Latvian Lunchroom was originally established in 2010 as a family business to provide traditional foods direct to the Latvian community via private events and cultural functions.

The Latvian Lunchroom interior. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Perkons-Grauze decided she wanted to share those food traditions further and began to look around for a place where The Latvian Lunchroom could create a cultural experience for the wider community.

“I was having trouble finding a location and a stall at The Central Market happened to become free,” says Perkons-Grauze. “I was very lucky, the Market is one of my favourite places.”

The Latvian Lunchroom opened in April this year, a vibrant stall decorated with timber cladding and lots of bright red in a riot of folk art and textiles, on the north-western corner of the Market. It’s as attractive as any of the recent spate of pop-up food vendors around town, but the difference is that it feels so much more authentic – it’s interesting and exotic enough for an Aussie to imagine what it’s like to be in Latvia and the food is as tasty and comforting as lunch at Nanna’s.

“It took a lot of planning and thinking about everything to make it right,” says Perkons-Grauze. “A lot of the decoration is iconic – folkloric – in Latvia: the pussy willows, the wreaths, the old hall seating, the cushions and the pottery.”

Latvian pottery at The Latvian Lunchroom. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Perkons-Grauze can often be seen wearing one of those wreaths as she serves customers behind the counter and waits on the small number of tables. She prepares much of the food herself on site, but she also calls on members of the Latvian community who exclusively bake organic sour rye for the smalk maiztes (open sandwiches), the pirags (traditional soft baked pastries filled with bacon, onion and pepper) and the konditoreja (artisan cheesecake, torte, roulade and the famous honey cake).

On the day that InDaily visited it was “Soup and Pirags” day. The blackboard menu offered a number of soups for lunch that can be either eaten in or taken away: frikadels (meatball broth), farmers hotpot, beetroot, “singing fisherman” (smoked cod and peas), pea and smoked pork and chicken and veg served with a couple of warm pirags.

Behind the glass counter there were also a number of smalk maiztes already prepared with various toppings, exotic cakes, containers of herrings, sprats, smoked and fresh sausages, cherry brandy pate and lots of cans of beer (yes, The Latvian Lunchroom is licensed). But the menu is far broader, offering everything from fully cooked breakfasts to cake and coffee, to snacks, hot dogs and beer, to pork fillets, beef cutelets and various sausages served with sauerkraut, fried potatoes, gherkins and beetroot vinaigrette (pickle).

Singing Fisherman soup. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Favourite dish: Singing fisherman soup ($8). “This is a smoked cod dish my mum used to make,” explains Perkons-Grauze. “Latvians are big singers and my background is a fishing family, so this dish is named in their honour.” It’s a hearty and creamy soup with chunks of smoked fish, lots of fresh peas and sprigs of dill. Served with two tasty pirags, of course.

Beetroot soup. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Other dishes: Beetroot soup and pirags ($8). “Latvians make a lot of different things with beetroot, but this soup is actually made with six or seven different vegetables,” explains Perkons-Grauze. “You won’t be able to pick them, but I can’t tell you what they are or it won’t be special anymore.” We suggested carrot and she shook her head. “It’s all made with love,” she said.

Latvian open sandwiches. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

The smalk maiztes ($3 each) look a bit daunting spread with tonguewurst, sprats, herrings and slices of blood sausage, but we can assure you they are an absolute delight. “The sandwiches are planned so the flavours complement each other.” Perkons-Grauze has certainly done her planning well because the sour rye was light and gentle and with the toppings InDaily tasted (Riga sprats with red onion and dill, devilled eggs with anchovy and caviar, and blood sausage with pickled beetroot) were delicious.

A selection of Latvian cakes. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Something sweet/to drink: The honey cake is a dense treat made from layers of biscuit and honey cream. The Willy Wagtail cake (cielavina) is made from layers of meringue sandwiched with chocolate cream and hazelnuts. And the baked cheesecake is not sweet and made with a quark-like fresh cheese – this was the favourite. Cakes are around $5 per slice. “Laura’s auntie makes the cakes.”

Mulled wine. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Mulled wine ($5 per glass) was on the blackboard on the day we visited, and irresistible on such a cold winter day. Warm, aromatic and fortifying, perfect. But there are also a selection of herbal teas blended with flowers and seeds and filtered Latvian coffee by the pot. What is quite surprising and worthy of exploring is the range of tonics (birch, chlorophyll and apple cider vinegar), kefirs, imported Latvian vodkas and infused vodkas (rosehip, apple and rhubarb, dill gherkin and beetroot), Riga Black Balzams (a strong herbal digestif similar to Fernet Branca) and six rare beers made in Latvia. Robe Town Brewery beers made by young Latvian brewers Maris and Kristi Biezaitis are also available.

Latvian beer. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

A great way to experience The Latvian Lunchroom will be at Mara’s Feast next Wednesday from 12pm. Mara’s Feast is Perkons-Grauze’s next one-table degustation luncheon and the menu will include six dishes, mulled wine, coffee and Baltic chocolate for $35 per person. Contact The Latvian Lunchroom for more information.

The Latvian Lunchroom
Open market hours for takeaway purchases. Serving hot meals Tuesday to Saturday – check the website for breakfast, lunch and dinner service times.
Stall 75, Adelaide Central Market, Grote Street, Adelaide, 0402 668 227