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The Forager: Snowtown food, a sweet market

Sep 09, 2015
Donuts are just some of the sweet treats that will be available at new Flinders Street Market event Sweet Tooth. Photo: supplied

Donuts are just some of the sweet treats that will be available at new Flinders Street Market event Sweet Tooth. Photo: supplied

In this week’s column: Food is the new tourist attraction at Snowtown, a market for sweet-tooths, pickles you can drink, what’s happening at the Show and a Champagne dinner.

Snowtown’s fancy chef

A quiet country town in the state’s mid-north is attracting more than gawpers and ghostbusters now that its pub has a five-star chef.

International chef Dylan McDonald has taken on the stoves at the Snowtown Hotel, 145 kilometres north of Adelaide, in the town stigmatised by its connection to one of South Australia’s most notorious homicide cases.

He says that while tourists are still stopping to photograph the Snowtown bank building where the murder victims’ bodies were found, they are now also stopping for a five-star feed.

“I’ve worked from Rylstone to Roma and back to Broken Hill and I’ve never come to a pub and seen mustard-crusted pork chops with a fruit glaze sauce for $28 – we’re doing five-star quality meals.”

McDonald is making the most of the local produce, including *Laura Hills Lamb, which also features on the menus of some of the state’s top restaurants, including Magill Estate, Red Ochre, Coriole, The Currant Shed and La Terre.

“I’m bashing out some Laura Hills rump and crumbing them into schnitzels with a rosemary gravy ($20),” he says. “I’m serving their lamb backstrap crusted with sundried tomato mash and balsamic glaze ($28.50). The lamb schnitzels have really taken off with the locals.”

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The Snowtown Hotel. Photo: supplied

McDonald has cooking in his blood and has spent more than 10 years travelling the world with Hilton hotels.

“I grew up on Hamilton Island; my dad was the executive chef there,” he says. “I moved to Brisbane to do my apprenticeship at the Gabba. I found cheffing really easy.”

At the age of 19, McDonald’s career took him overseas to the bright lights of Las Vegas and New York, working with Hilton. He then returned to Australia to work with Atlas Catering Company, catering to remote country towns.

“I ended up a the Musicians’ Club in Broken Hill, where I turned it around from 30 meals a day to 150 at a lunch sitting, and met my fiancée Rebecca.

“Atlas then sent me to Snowtown. The owner (of the Snowtown Hotel, Phil Hyde) needed a chef to stay, so he bought me out of my contract.

“I’ve never lived in South Australia before, but me and Rebecca are quite happy here at the moment.”

*Laura Hills Lamb is an award-winning breeder of multi-purpose merino lamb, which is gaining recognition for its flavour and tenderness due to the meat’s inherent marbling (intra-muscular fat).

Sweet spot

Flinders Street Market is hosting 85 local chefs, foodies and dessert makers to present what could be Adelaide’s first “Sweet Tooth Market” this month on September 19 and 20.

There will be chocolate, toffee, truffles, fudge, cakes, pastries, slices, cupcakes and more from producers including The Honey Lady, Shirni Parwana Afghan Sweets, the Honey Puff Ladies, The Mac Shac macarons, Barossa Valley Ice Cream Company, Sucre Patisserie, Chocolate @ No. 5 and Popsicool.

Raw food, sugar-free and gluten-free food, and vegan options will be available, plus there will be live music, decorating demonstrations and the Bickfords airstream cordial bar.

The Flinders Street Market is a small community market which has been running since 1999. Last year management of the market was taken over by Georgia Gabrielle, who began facilitating new opportunities for the community to sell their their art and craft works, vintage wares, home-grown produce and artisan food.

The Sweet Tooth event follows Gabrielle’s Street Food Festival earlier this year, which attracted 20,000 visitors and is part of the market’s special events calendar which includes a monthly themed market.

Get pickled

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The Darling cocktail and a plate of tartines at Pickle in the Middle. Photo: supplied

Known for its progressive use of house-made pickles and preserves throughout its menu, Unley Road’s Pickle in the Middle café has now launched a drinks menu featuring pickles.

The Pickled Mary features preserved lemon vodka, a pickled dilly bean garnish and gochugaru (a Korean chilli pepper); The Darling owes its blush colour to a house-made beetroot lemon shrub; and The Day Peeper is the ultimate morning cocktail, featuring cold-brew coffee, amaro and bourbon.

Pickle in the Middle also has a new range of tartines (open-faced sandwiches inspired by the Danish smorrebrod), and wines and beers from local producers including Guthrie Wines, Delinquente Wine Co, Brew Boys, and Pirate Life.

It is open 8am to 4pm, Monday to Sunday, at 134 Unley Road, Unley.

At the Royal Show – olives and olive oil

Results of the 2015 Royal Adelaide Show and OlivesSA Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Table Olives competition were announced this week, with two Fleurieu Peninsula producers taking out major awards.

Diana Olive Oil received five awards, including Best Olive Oil and Best SA Olive Oil for its Novello Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Manzanillo, Leccino, Pendolino blend), while Cicada received the the award for Best Table Olives for its green Verdale variety.

“The best oils were complex, with distinct olive fruit, and were fresh and lively,” says OliveSA vice-president Trudie Michels.

“This year, the stand-out aromas and flavours centered on a freshly cut grass, green apple and herbaceous spectrum. The oils were much milder than last year’s more intense bitter and peppery styles. The 2015 oils were much more enjoyable to judge and taste.”

Michels said the quality of the table olives was also up, with judges commending local green and Kalamata olives on their aroma, texture and flavour balance.

The full list of results can be found here.

Also at the Show, local olive producers are displaying oils and a variety of table olives for purchase and taste, with free 20-minute olive oil appreciation classes given by OlivesSA, teaching participants to discriminate between, mild, medium and robust extra virgin olive oils and what to do with them.

Olive oil appreciation sessions take place at the OlivesSA stand in the TasteSA section of the IGA Pavilion.

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Australia’s chief olive oil judge, Richard Gawel, giving an olive oil appreciation class at the Royal Adelaide Show this week. Photo: supplied

At the Royal Show – superchefs on show

Some of the biggest cheffing names around Adelaide are demonstrating their craft for showgoers.

Each day Simon Bryant, Callum Hann, Tze Khaw, Paul Baker, Nick Finn, Jock Zonfrillo and Stewart Wesson are taking part in free cooking demonstrations in the IGA Food Pavilion Demo Kitchen.

Also in the Demo Kitchen, there will be afternoon cake-decorating demonstrations from 3pm, and wine and cheese tastings from 6.30pm. More information about Demo Kitchen activities can be found here.

 Chuck Wagon No 2

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Chuck Wagon’s Kinder Milkshake. Photo: supplied

North Adelaide’s “American soul food” Chuck Wagon restaurant is preparing to open a second outlet in Norwood.

“We signed on the dotted line last Sunday,” says owner James Tsimopoulos, “so we’re six weeks away from opening.”

The new location will be right next door to Wok in a Box, taking up the premises that was occupied by Mexican restaurant Holy Guacamole.

“Chuck Wagon opened up in North Adelaide two years ago,” says Tsimopoulos. “We purchased it in March last year – it wasn’t doing well. We re-did the menu and added cocktails and milkshakes.”

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Tsimopoulos also owns an accounting firm but says he has taken several trips to the US to make sure Chuck Wagon is doing the buffalo wings, ribs and burgers just right.

“We have turned milkshakes on their heads – we have a Nutella donut milkshake with a whole donut sitting on top and a waffle milkshake with a waffle on top – our milkshakes are more a dessert than a flavoured milk.”

Champagne dinner at The Apothecary

Champagne specialist The Apothcary 1878 is holding a special dinner event to celebrate Champagne Billecart-Salmon on September 24.

Hosted by Vin de Champagne Award Winner James Smith, the seven-course menu is matched to seven Billecart-Salmon Champagnes.

Coffin Bay oysters, escargot parfait, kingfish ceviche, tuna tartare and roasted duck are just some of the ingredients featured on the menu, matched with the Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV, Cuvee ‘Nicolas-Francois Billecart’ 2002, Extra Brut NV, Brut Sous Bois NV, Brut Rosé NV, Vintage 2006 and Demi Sec NV. Tickets are $175 per person. More information can be found here.

Bendbrook Wine and Tapas Bar

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The historic Hahndorf setting for Bendbrook Wines’ new wine and tapas bar. Photo: supplied

Boutique Adelaide Hills beef and wine producers Bendbrook have opened a wine and tapas bar at Hahndorf among a cluster of other winery cellar doors in the town’s Main Street.

The bar is open from Thursday to Saturday from 11am to 6pm, “or later, depending on the crowd”.

Owners John and Marg Struik have been producing wine and beef on their Macclesfield property for 15 years, directly supplying to restaurants.

“I’d always liked the building in Hahndorf,” says John of the location at 79 Main Street. “It’s a small, cosy establishment, good for peddling our handmade wines.”

The tapas menu includes jamon, meatballs and “all the other bits and pieces”.

Bendbrook Wine and Tapas Bar is located opposite the new Gepetto’s pizza bar and within walking distance from the Somerled, Scott + La Prova, Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy and Rockbare cellar doors.

Racing against hunger

OzHarvest has teamed up with Santos to launch The Great Food Rescue Race – a new way for people to support the organisation’s efforts to reduce food waste and feed the hungry and homeless in Adelaide.

The Great Food Rescue Race is a fun food and food-rescue themed foot race. Registered teams will compete in a series of challenges across the CBD while celebrating Adelaide’s food culture and raising funds that will help OzHarvest rescue and deliver more nutritious food in the community.

“OzHarvest has achieved so much since launching here in Adelaide four years ago,” says state manager Hayley Everuss.

“We now rescue and deliver, on average, 45 tonnes per week (equivalent to 130,000 meals) with our three vans on the road from Aldinga to Gawler, and a fourth rescue van entering service soon. But unfortunately there is still so much more to do. With people getting behind The Great Food Rescue Race, they will be helping us to meet growing demand while having a whole lot of fun.”

The race starts at Victoria Square on November 6. Registration is $50 per person, and teams are encouraged to enter soon to avoid missing out. For every team registering, OzHarvest can deliver an additional 500 meals.

This week at the Adelaide Farmers’ Market – grapefruit

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Grapefruit. Photo: supplied

The grapefruit is a member of the citrus family, known for its tart, thick-pithed, spherical, yellow-orange bitter fruit.

Fruit with red, white and pink pulp hues are all grown in Australia. It is believed the grapefruit originated in the 18th century in Barbados as a cross between the sweet orange and pummelo. The flavours range from highly acidic and somewhat sour, to sweet and tart. Grapefruits are rich in vitamin C and are a good source of dietary fibre.

Grapefruit’s cutting acidity makes it perfect for rich dishes using duck and pork, or it can be paired with contrasting ingredients like radish, honey or oily fish. Grilled grapefruit makes an excellent simple dessert. Halve a grapefruit, leaving the skin on. Mix a teaspoon each of brown sugar, roughly chopped hazelnuts and cinnamon and then sprinkle over the fruit. Grill until lightly browned.

DJ Garden Fresh Citrus sells grapefruit at its stall at Prospect Farmers’ Market on Thursdays from 3pm-6.30pm. The is next to Prospect Town Hall on the corner of Vine Street Plaza and Prospect Road.

Adelaide Showground Farmers’ Market is currently closed due to the Royal Adelaide Show and will re-open on Sunday, September 20.

What’s on?

OzAsia Night Noodle Markets – September 24 to October 4
Presented by the Adelaide Festival Centre over two weeks each year, the OzAsia Festival connects audiences with arts, festivities, traditions and foods from across Asia. The Night Noodle Markets are new to the festival this year and have been brought to Adelaide by Good Food Month. Producers from all over Australia will participate, including Adelaide’s Kopi & Kitchen, The Satay Hut and Tammy’s Meat Rolls, who will be showcasing their specialties. There will also be themed bars and music in a fun festival atmosphere from 5pm until late on week days and 12pm until late on weekends. Entry will be free. More information can be found here.

Bottega Rotolo Cheese & Wine Classes – various Thursday nights during October and November
At Bottega Rotolo Hyde Park’s Cheese & Wine Classes you will be taken on a cheese journey, hosted within its temperature-controlled cheese vault. You will learn from cheese experts as they share their knowledge and experience on some of the world’s best artisan cheeses. The class includes a selection of cheeses, paired with gourmet accompaniments and premium wines. Cost is $50 per person. Bookings and information here.

Classic Adelaide Rally Fleurieu Leg – October 16
Watch the cars racing by while you sit back and enjoy lunch at Leonards Mill from a menu designed to showcase the produce of the Fleurieu Peninsula. There will be live entertainment by Garry Isaacs, and local artisan craft and food stalls to browse. Lunch is $65 per person (including food and entertainment). To book your table, email [email protected]

2015 Vale Brewing CheeseFest – October 23 to 25
Now in its 10 year, CheeseFest has grown from a grassroots fair celebrating cheese to a three-day festival with a national following where visitors immerse themselves in SA’s cheese culture with tastings, talks, cooking sessions and picnic trails. The full program and tickets are available here.

Picnic at Marble Hill – November 22
Tickets are now on sale for this one-day festival of artisan wine, food and music from the cool heart of the Adelaide Hills. At Picnic at Marble Hill, a select group of Adelaide Hills wineries and cider makers will showcase their drops alongside a range of local food producers against the stunning backdrop of the historic Marble Hill ruins. Proceeds go to the Cora Barclay Centre for deaf and hearing-impaired children, the Basket Range Primary School and the Cherryville CFS. Tickets are $15 for adults. More information here.

News, tips and information?

The Forager would love to hear about your news, events and suggestions. Please contact us at [email protected].

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