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Lunch review: Luigi Delicatessen

Sep 04, 2015

At Luigi Delicatessen, there is a glass jug filled with water and slices of cucumber sitting on the cool marble bench.

Big wheels of Italian cheese, ropes of garlic and salumi hang from the ceiling, and there are bunches of herbs ready for action.

Everything is out on show in this tiny Flinders Street café, including owner Luigi Di Costanzo, who juggles front-of-house between filling orders at the stoves.

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The open kitchen at Luigi Delicatessen. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

He is a natural maitre d’ – not one person slips through the front door without a greeting from him, as he knows the importance of building rapport with his clientele.

Di Costanzo arrived in Adelaide from Naples with his parents and younger sister in 1974, finding accommodation alongside many other migrants at the Pennington Hostel.

Fast forward 40 years, and he has chosen to move on from a background in corporate hospitality and marketing in the eastern states to return here for family and simplicity, finding a place for another new beginning on the ground floor of the Pruszinski Architects building on Flinders Street.

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Lasagne di casa. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Luigi Delicatessen opened in July this year, with seating for just over 20 customers. It is currently open from 6am to 4pm on week days only for breakfast and lunch and everything in between. It is distinctly Italian, with a selection of home-style dishes cooked by Di Costanzo as daily specials, as well as cakes by Mauro Gulli (Andre’s Cucina), handmade protein balls and freshly blended juices are also big at Luigi’s.

Di Costanzo is not a chef. His recipes have been learned from family and years working in hospitality. “It’s a fusion between Mediterranean gourmet food and food for people who are looking after themselves,” explains Di Costanzo.

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Pear, apple, carrot, beetroot and orange juice. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Luigi’s clientele is diverse, ranging from the architects upstairs and other local office workers to destination diners. Breakfast is popular, with Earth Eggs and San Jose pancetta used to make dishes such as baked eggs in Napoli sauce, and caramelised beetroot with poached eggs, pancetta and blue cheese. But Di Costanzo is flexible and will use what he has to meet clients’ requirements.

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Together, he and the architects at Pruszinski have created a very nice “cafeteria”, collaborating over the fit-out and the design of the stunning San Pellegrino bottle/light installation on the back wall.

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San Pellegrino bottle/light installation. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

When InDaily visited, there were roadworks outside; the footpath area is being extended to offer more outdoor seating, and the plan is to also open on the weekends, with a liquor licence to come.

Favourite dish: Eggplant parmigiana – slices of eggplant baked in tomato sauce; a much lighter dish than the traditional battered version ($13.90/$18.90).

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Eggplant parmigiana. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Other dishes: Spaghetti crab – “the house specialty” – a very generous serving of spaghetti with a chilli crab tomato sauce ($13.90/18.90). Also offered on the day we visited were lasagne di casa ($13.90/$18.90) and soup of the day ($12).

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Crab spaghetti. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Something sweet/to drink: A sweet and earthy blend of pear, apple, carrot, beetroot and orange juice ($9) was recommended, and was very good. The coffee was also impressive, but Di Costanzo wouldn’t divulge which brand he uses. He just smiled and said: “It’s my own blend.”

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Coffee with latte art. Photo: Nat Rogers/InDaily

Luigi Delicatessen
151 Flinders Street, Adelaide, ph 0412 458 828
Open for breakfast and lunch from 6am to 4pm, Monday to Friday.

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