Each year Mitolo wines owner and second-generation Italian Frank Mitolo makes a batch of home-made pork sausages with his father Bruno. They make enough to last the family the whole year.

“It is a family tradition that has been passed down through many generations,” says Frank.

Bruno and Frank Mitolo. Photo: Jonathan Vdk

“My father arrived in Australia in the 1950s from Abruzzo in Italy. With my mother Angela he grew vegetables and they became successful market gardeners.

“They worked very hard but never forgot their origins, where food and wine were an integral part of relaxation. I grew up understanding that wine meant family and friends around a shared table laden with the rustic foods of our homeland.”

The Mitolo family now owns vineyards at McLaren Vale, and from it produces more than a dozen wines.

“My father and his long-time friends would get together each year to make the sausages from a whole pig; nothing goes to waste,” Frank says. “It is a lot of work, but it is a day that brings all the families together, where a rustic lunch is always shared.”

The Mitolo family takes a break for lunch. Photo: Jonathan Vdk

This year the group gathered in their friends’ backyard. It is traditional for many Italian families to create a backyard space for the preparation of food such as tomato sauce and sausages. It is generally a large shed with a basic kitchen.

Home-made Italian sausage recipes differ from family to family. The Mitolo recipe uses 140ml of capsicum sauce and 240g of salt per 10kg of meat, plus pepper, wild fennel seeds and chilli flakes to taste, but Frank and Bruno believe the secret to good sausages is in the amount of fat used.

“Fat is important for keeping the sausages moist,” explains Frank. He says it is something that is done “by feel” and has caused many friendly disputes.

The freshly made sausages are strung together and hung for drying. Photo: Jonathan Vdk

Making sausages from scratch is a job that requires some tuition and experience. You don’t need to buy a whole pig; you can use smaller portions, and it is said that the shoulder meat is best. Home sausage-making courses are offered through Regency TAFE and Feast! Fine Foods at its Adelaide Central Market kitchen.

Once made, the sausages can be eaten fresh or after curing, where they are hung in a cool, dry place for up to three weeks.

“Once everyone is happy with the amount of drying, the sausages are vacuum-packed and divided up among the families,” Frank says.

Mitolo family friends share the sausage-making tradition. Photo: Jonathan Vdk

Here, Frank shares his favourite recipe – a simple pasta dish that can be made with fresh or cured sausage. He recommends completing the experience with a bottle of his G.A.M McLaren Vale Shiraz, which is named after his children Gemma, Alex and Marco.

Orecchiette with wild broccoli and home-made sausage

Ingredients

1 cup chicken stock
453g orecchiette
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, crushed
680g wild broccoli*, florets and tender stems only
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon salt
227g freshly made (or cured)  sausage
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
½ cup freshly grated parmigiano reggiano cheese

*Wild broccoli (cime di rape) is a favourite Italian ingredient which is currently in season and can be found at the Adelaide Showgrounds Farmers Markets and Norwood Metropolitan Fresh Fruiterers. Broccolini can be used as a substitute.

Method

Bring chicken stock to a boil.

Cook the orecchiette in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente; drain well.

Meanwhile, in a large, deep skillet, heat the oil. Add the garlic and cook over moderately high heat until golden. Add the broccoli, crushed red pepper and salt; cover and steam for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the hot chicken stock, sausage and butter, and cook over high heat until the sauce reduces slightly (about 3 minutes).

Add the orecchiette to the skillet and toss gently. Sprinkle half the grated parmigiano reggiano on top and toss again. Serve immediately, sprinkled with the remaining cheese.

Serves 6