This week in The Forager: Duncan Welgemoed’s South African food adventure; top local sparklings for Melbourne Cup day; and why you should make the pilgrimage to Mildura for the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show.

Duncan’s new groove

Influenced by the aesthetic of the post-war Afri-cola soft drink branding and his South African roots, chef Duncan Welgemoed and designer partner James Brown (Mexicola Hotel, Bali) are opening their new venture – Africola – at 4 East Terrace, Adelaide, on November 18.

“I can’t give away the dishes, but I can tell you it will have a contemporary African flavour exploring the foods of the tribes of South Africa and the influences of the Portuguese, the Indians, the Malaysians and the Dutch,” Welgemoed says.

“The Zulu influence is with roasted meats and fermented milk (amasi) and the Xhosa [influence] is dehydrated fruit and vegetables.

“The Dutch had their influence on the South African cuisine with their biltong (preserved, dried meat) and boerewors (coiled sausage) and potjie (slow cooking over ash and coal) – we have built a full hearth indoors for this.

“After 100 years of living in South Africa, the Portuguese, Malaysian and Indians have spawned their own South African style. For example, the curry powder you find in Durban is completely different to the curry powder you will find in India.

“There’s not a single restaurant in the world doing what we’re doing – we’re actually exploring the food culture of South Africa and taking it to another level.”

For the drinks, Welgemoed has imported cocktail expert and “molecular biologist” Andrew Cameron from Brisbane. He will also be brewing Africola’s own brand of beer (Mafuta ale), which will be available on tap.

“Andrew has the best cocktail list in Australia, and with his food knowledge he will also be working on ferments and vibing off all the flavours of Africa.

“The wines will be South Africa’s best and the most interesting from South Australia.”

Along with James Brown, Welgemoed is supported by Paul Glen and James Hillier (Golden Boy and Rocket Bar). Welgemoed will continue to oversee Bistro Dom, but Shane Wilson will move from Hentley Farm to take over as head chef.

Africola will open for dinner (Tuesday to Saturday) and weekend brunch.

Food show winner

Barossa Fine Foods has cleaned up at one of Australia’s most prestigious food competitions, the Spring Sydney Royal Fine Food Show.

The SA smallgoods and gourmet meat producer won more than 30 awards, including Champion Ham Exhibit for its Baked Leg Ham and the Trophy and Champion Smallgoods Exhibit for its Paprika Leberkase.

Michael’s
Melbourne Cup tips

Michael Andrewartha from The Tasting Room has some tips for Melbourne Cup winners on Tuesday – three South Australian sparklings he says will not disappoint.

Deviation Road Loftia 2012 – $40
Winemaker Kate Laurie learnt the trade in Champagne and her vintage work there over the past years is on display in the fantastic 2012 Loftia. It has delicate floral aromas and an elegant palate balanced with lovely texture, showing rich and buttery stone fruits while still being quite light on its feet.

Croser NV – $22
Fresh strawberries get this started and continue onto the palate, with new-season pears packed full of flavour with layers of almonds, and a creamy texture guiding you through to a nice crisp finish. A perfect example of aperitif bubbles.

Hentley Farm Blanc de Noir NV – $30
Lifted aromas of roses blooming in the spring time and marmalade on hot toast steal the show. A bright palate of fresh peach follows, with some lovely fruit sweetness without being syrupy or sticky. This is a brilliant Blanc de Noir showing poise and elegance.

Fashion Icons and French-inspired high tea

The InterContinental Adelaide is offering a Parisian High Tea package including a general admission ticket to the Fashion Icons exhibition at the Art Gallery of South Australia.

Enjoy delicate sandwiches, pastries and scones complete with a glass of Bollinger Rose before making the short stroll along North Terrace to the Art Gallery to be mesmerised by an exhibition of haute couture garments drawn from the most comprehensive fashion collections in the world, the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.

The Parisian High Tea package is available for $65 on week days and $69 on weekends throughout the exhibition. Information and bookings can be made here.

Alternative Varieties Wine Show

Australian Alternative Wine Varieties Show founder Stefano de Pieri.

In 1999, Stefano de Pieri and Bruce Chalmers, along with Rod Bonfiglioli, initiated the Sangiovese Awards and continued in 2000 with the Australian Italian Wine Show. Following the success of these shows, the first Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show was held in Mildura in November 2001.

The annual AAVWS is a dedicated forum for wines that fall outside the mainstream; it also provides a host of social and educational events. The popular long lunch, this year with Stefano de Pieri and Movida’s Frank Camorra, is sold out, but the following events are still open. Make a weekend of it and visit Banrock Station at Kingston-on-Murray and 919 Wines at Berri on the way.

Terra Australis – Chalmers Family Dinner – Thursday, November 6
Join the Chalmers family for an evening of food and wine that digs deep in the cultural history of our unique continent. Using Indigenous ingredients and colonial-era influenced cuisine, chef Jim McDougall will take you on a journey from the oldest civilisation on the planet to modern Australia, paired with relative newcomers; the alternative variety wines are from Chalmers. Tickets are $95; bookings essential.

AAVWS Talk and Taste – The Ancient in Modernity – Friday, November 7
Session One – Georgia On My Mind
Georgia is one of the world’s oldest wine-producing countries, home to an astonishing array of indigenous varieties and the traditional winemaking technique using qvevri – egg-shaped earthenware vessels. The qvevri winemaking method is so significant culturally and historically it is on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Keynote speaker Lado Uzunashvili, winemaker at Mukado Wines in Georgia’s Gurjaani region, will take you on a vinous tour of his beloved homeland, tracing ancient grape varieties.

Session Two – Winemaking 101 – NOT
This session will be an in-depth look at benchmark wines that defy conventional winemaking. Think white wines with extended time on skins – we’re talking months, not days – or reds with very long macerations, dry wines made from varieties traditionally destined for sweet styles, and wines that express the beauty of blending. Wine writer and AAVWS chief of judges Jane Faulkner will moderate, along with winemakers Glenn James from Ducks in A Row, Bart Van Olphen of #bucketwine and Corrina Wright from Oliver’s Taranga Vineyard. Also joining the session will be the AAVWS 2014 international wine judge and leading Italian wine writer Walter Speller, from jancisrobinson.com.

Cost is $110 per person. Bookings are essential.

AAVWS Show Tasting with Judges’ Feedback and Results – Saturday, November 8
One of the highlights of the AAVWS is this exhibitor tasting and the most comprehensive tasting of alternative varietals anywhere in the country. The tasting starts at 8am and draws a huge crowd, so make sure you don’t miss out on some of the wines by getting there on time. Cost is $15 per person and includes a commemorative glass. More information can be found here.

Events

Table Olives Master Class – November 1
Olives SA will present a table olive master class – From Tree to Table – for anyone interested in learning more about table olives at Diana Olive Oil Processors at Willunga. The class will start at 10am and include tastings of various varieties of recently harvested table olive, as well as a light lunch and wine. Contact Michael Johnston on 0419 845 839 for bookings and more information.

Picnic at Marble Hill 2014 – November 16
Tickets have gone on sale for the 2014 Picnic at Marble Hill, the annual one-day festival of artisan wine and food from the cool heart of the Adelaide Hills. Last year’s picnic sold out early. Tickets can be purchased here.