It’s hard to walk past this East End eatery without turning your head.

The décor is a riot of colour and kitsch, with hand-painted Indian tiles lining the counter and bright blue hand-painted walls hung with Persian artwork, posters and photos; recesses and shelves house an eclectic collection of teapots, bottles and assorted quirky ornaments.

Mouth-watering smells waft from the mint-green open kitchen, complete with a poster on the back wall of a buff Sly Stallone in Rambo III, which, in case you’re wondering about the connection, was set in Afghanistan.

None of that monotone minimalist or earthy rustic revival business here.

Kutchi Deli Parwana opened in May and is described as the second chapter in the story of Parwana, the popular Torrensville Afghan restaurant owned by Zelmai and Farida Ayubi. The Ebenezer Place offshoot is run by the couple’s daughters and their partners, and serves Afghan-style street food; kutchi means nomad or gypsy in the Farsi language.

A great plus for workers with a limited lunch hour is that the service is generally fast, with all the options available for takeaway. If you do want to linger, there’s bench-style window seating inside plus a few tables and chairs out the front.

Favourite dish: The morgh degee is top of the blackboard menu and also our top choice – at $14, it may seem a bit pricey for a takeaway, but it’s very filling and worth the money. It consists of bite-sized chicken pieces marinated in Afghan spices and served with a piquant herby yoghurt side sauce, naan bread, and a fresh tomato, red onion, cucumber and flat-leaf parsley salad. The chicken is tender and succulent with a vibrant flavour; there’s a dash of heat, but not enough to scare off anyone. The spices are so beautifully blended in the marinade that it’s hard to pick out individual ones – if I could, I’d be attempting to make this myself at home.

Other dishes: The blackboard at Kutchi Deli Parwana changes regularly, but there is always a selection of curries, dumplings and bolani (filled flatbreads).

The mantu (steamed dumplings stuffed with sautéed carrot and onion, $12) is another cool-weather winner – a hearty, tasty dish served with a lamb mince sauce and yoghurt to offset the spiciness. Be warned: you’ll probably need some mints afterwards.

Kofta curry ($14), served with rice and house-made pickles for a bit of zing, also gets the thumbs-up, although the sautéed pumpkin curry ($12) was a little bland for this reviewer’s taste.

Something sweet/to drink: Diners can choose from Shir Chai (a traditional Afghan chai), assorted teas and cold drinks. Afghan sweets are also available, but after the mains, you’d be lucky to fit them.

The dishes at Kutchi Deli Parwana are deliberately rustic – this is street food, after all – and it’s not just the flavours that lift the spirits, it’s also the family tradition and culture at the heart of the operation.

If only it was open in the evenings as well.

Kutchi Deli Parwana
7 Ebenezer Place, Adelaide

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