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Restaurant review: Little NNQ

Jul 25, 2014
Little NNQ is in a prime spot on Gouger Street. Photo: Nat Rogers / InDaily

Little NNQ is in a prime spot on Gouger Street. Photo: Nat Rogers / InDaily

It appears there will finally once again be a successful and worthy Gouger Street restaurant where the old La Guillotine used to prosper.

Little NNQ, the sister restaurant of the hugely successful Ferryden Park eatery Nghi Ngan Quan, opened in the prime spot after a bid to open in a much larger space on Port Road didn’t eventuate.

Following a conga line of failed Indian restaurants, the large two-storey building has been treated to a basic yet necessary refresh, including the closing off of the kitchen, which was originally open.

The overall impression of Little NNQ is calm yet noisy; neat yet busy. The restaurant is large, with downstairs seating at least 70 while upstairs would fit about 40.

It has a modern, clean feel to it, which is highlighted by the simple contrast of dark wood furniture and exposed brick walls.

Since its opening, Little NNQ has been popular – so popular, in fact, that on one occasion it even ran out of rice (the goodwill of a neighbouring restaurant covered the shortage).

On the freezing mid-week night we visit, we are placed upstairs, where even the balcony is full of diners kept warm by outdoor heaters – it is lucky we booked.

The menu is simple and long. Brief descriptions detail what will prove to be a rewarding dinner.

The wine list is extremely well stocked with some very reasonable prices, such as the Shaw and Smith M3 chardonnay at $65.

NNQ's savoury pancakes and spring rolls.

NNQ’s savoury pancakes and spring rolls.

A waitress comes almost immediately after we are settled at our table; drinks are served, entrees are ordered and, despite the crowd, meals arrive within 10 to 15 minutes.

To begin we enjoy spring rolls, savoury pancakes and the quail.

The spring rolls are the traditional combination of crisp blistered pastry encasing a meaty filling, with a tart and spicy dipping sauce adding the perfect punch.

The savoury pancakes are almost mini curry-flavoured quiches – a soft batter encases a prawn with hints of coconut and spice making these a complex and well-rounded mouthful.

Two plump roasted quails are next – a deliciously tangy marinade of lemon tamarind and ginger unevenly coats the moist flesh.

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For starters costing about $15 on average, there is an awful lot of food. It is presented simply and is designed for sharing.

The service isn’t the haphazard approach common with Gouger Street’s cheaper Asian offerings, with nicely dressed staff able to detail the menu with ease.

For mains (costing on average about $19-$20), our group over-orders by an extraordinary amount.

The stewed pork belly with egg is sweet and tender, while the soft-shell crab is one of the best to be found in Adelaide.

The salt and pepper mushroom is a vegetarian delight that would be welcomed by any carnivore.

However, the pick of the night, the chicken curry, was sublime – moist tender chunks of chicken in a vibrant yellow sauce and a slight spice and cream base. It is one to go back for and reminiscent of Asian Gourmet’s renowned Nonya Chicken.

Overwhelmingly, the cuisine is clean, crisp Vietnamese food with a western twist that is served in large amounts to be shared among groups.

Service is sharp, well-mannered and polite, and the bustling yet calm atmosphere of the restaurant is welcoming.

Little NNQ is a worthy and welcome addition to the area’s dining scene and looks set to thrive in a space that has seen many comings and goings.

The musical chairs spot on Gouger Street finally seems to have a winner.

Four out of five

4

Little NNQ
125 Gouger Street, Adelaide,
Open for lunch until dinner Wednesday – Monday

 

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