Vincenzo’s Cucina Vera delivers a mysterious style of dining which probably isn’t for everyone – but for those happy to go with the flow, it is an experience to be savoured.

Situated in a nondescript renovated former house on Unley Road, the interior is of plain white walls, with a small bar and room for about 20 diners.

A flock of decanters wait in the corner and red wiring connects low hanging light globes; it’s a quiet, simple setting – a strong theme for the night.

Upon arrival the wonderful maître‘d Lara asks a couple of easy questions about choice of cuisine and allergies before seating and beginning the dining experience.

There are no menus, no hints about what to expect other than the suggestion that we be honest and let the staff know when we are ready for dessert.

The setting is symbolic of the blank canvas that chef Vince starts with every night and gradually fills in with a wide variety of fresh ingredients from his garden, meat from the larder and the best produce sourced from South Australia.

First course is a charred selection of garden romanesco, broccoli and cauliflower which is flavoured with a pine salt. It sounds simple, but the delicate char and the salt make eating a childhood nightmare a heavenly experience.

This is followed by four fine slices of a six-year-old prosciutto, cured and hung on the premises. The salty flesh giving way to the sweet fat, all of which is perfectly washed down with an Italian dry white.

We work our way through several other courses: a delightful mix of pancetta, truffle, egg yolk and a succulent plant plucked from the garden – the splendidly named pig face; a rough risotto with a veal consommé so rich it would set to jelly when cooled; fluffy pillows of hand-made gnocchi with garden greens.

A mutton chop – yes mutton, with greens, baby onions and a sweet jus – is unbelievably tender and an excellent example of a chef unafraid to experiment on paying customers.

All meals are served and matched seemingly on the spot by a wide-ranging variety of wines. Poured before the course arrives and theatrically swished through one of the many decanters, Lara perfectly describes the taste on the palate and why it should match each dish.

Light Italian red, hearty Australian red, dry white and high acid varieties are matched expertly with the main characteristics of the dishes, all of which enhances the experience.

Lara is always careful not to tell people exactly what to think but manages to take diners through the thought process that leads to what are generally outstanding combinations.

It is a harmony that is often searched for in degustation dining but rarely discovered.

The close connection and vast experience between Lara and Vince, front-of-house and kitchen, is what makes Vincenzo’s work.

Paying for a dinner where you have little to no idea of what it may consist of is a brave idea in an industry that lives and dies on preparation, presentation and organisation.

But Vincenzo’s is a unique and outstanding dining experience from start to finish with simple but unforgettable flavours matched with excellent service.

4.5 out of 5

Vincenzo’s Cucina Vera

77 Unley Rd, Parkside

Phone: (08) 8271 1000

Cuisine: Modern Italian

Frank Grenfell is InDaily’s restaurant critic. He is a former journalist with experience working in restaurant kitchens and eating at some of the world’s finest establishments. His reviews appear on Fridays.