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Canada’s Yukon: like Narnia on steroids

Jan 30, 2015
Yukon gold. Photo: Lambs' Ears & Honey

Yukon gold. Photo: Lambs' Ears & Honey

When I was invited to Canada’s Yukon Territory, I realised my knowledge of the region was practically non-existent.  At best all I could come up with were clichéd images of gold panning, swinging bar doors and potatoes (Yukon Gold is a Canadian-developed variety of spud).

I looked it up on a map and discovered it to be tucked away in the north-west corner of this enormous country, reaching up to the Arctic in the north of the territory – so I figured it was going to be remote and pretty distinctive.

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Kathleen Lake, Kluane National Park. Photo: Lambs’ Ears & Honey

While I was on the right track with that notion, I was totally unprepared for the reality. The Yukon is simply the most breathtaking place I have ever visited. I used to think that we did big spaces fairly definitively here in Australia, but it seems we are not alone. The Yukon may be Canada’s smallest federal territory, but it excels when it comes to vast and unforgettable landscapes.

I spent my first night there in the capital, Whitehorse, and was driven to Kathleen Lake, Haines Junction and the Kluane National Park the next day, feeling like I’d landed on another planet – and it wasn’t just the jet-lag causing it.

I remember once being told that the Yukon was like Narnia on steroids and I have yet to find a better description. This place is jaw-droppingly arresting.

The vistas are endless and uncluttered by almost any signs of civilisation. The few towns are very small – Whitehorse, the only city, has a population of fewer than 24,000 and the gold-rush town of Dawson is home to around 1500 souls (according to Wikipedia).

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Stunning vistas on the road to Haines Junction. Photo: Lambs’ Ears & Honey

Along with Jessica, my escort from Tourism Yukon, I spent a couple of hours clearing my flight-addled brain on a guided walk around Kathleen Lake, with the incredibly informative Brent Liddle of Kluane Ecotours. Brent is a professional naturalist and wilderness guide who has more than 30 years experience in this region.

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Beware of bears. Photo: Lambs’ Ears & Honey

Located within Kluane National Park, the lake and surrounds was gloriously dressed in early autumn finery and, with bears particularly active as they get ready for a long nap, I was quite relieved to see nothing more exciting than a bold squirrel in the way of local beasts.

The Yukon’s catch-phrase is “Larger than life”, and it is easy to see why. This is a visually astounding place which filled my senses and left me lost for words. I ran out of superlatives when trying to describe my impressions of it to friends and family and only wish my photos did it more justice.

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With Whitehorse just a short two-hour flight from Vancouver, it is also incredibly accessible and just another reason to spend more time in western Canada.

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Yukon River, Whitehorse. Photo: Lambs’ Ears & Honey

Getting there

Qantas and Air New Zealand fly from Sydney to Vancouver, Canada, with connecting Air Canada flights available to the Yukon capital of Whitehorse.

What to do

Kluane Glacier Air Tours give a bird’s eye view of the stunning mountains, rivers, valleys and glaciers in the World Heritage-listed, 22,000sqkm Kluane National Park, which also has opportunities for walking, fishing and camping.

The Yukon Culinary Festival, held each year from July 31 to August 3, offers a chance to sample local delicacies – such as wild seafood, bison, moose, porcupine, morel mushrooms and fireweed – under the midnight sun.

South Australian writer Amanda McInerney was a guest of the Canadian Tourism Commission and Tourism Yukon. You can read more about her travels on her Lambs’ Ears & Honey blog.

 

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