Penfolds: it’s a brand that is intrinsically linked with quality and luxury, fine wines and high-end dining, and, some might say most importantly, brunch.

Under the eye of Executive Chef Scott Huggins (who spends most of his time in the adjacent fine dining Magill Estate Restaurant), the menu and management of Magill Estate Kitchen sits with Head Chef Jamie Laing. With a culinary repertoire that spans cuisines, Laing was most recently behind the pans in the French-inspired Crafers Hotel restaurant, and before that he led the team at Hills stalwart Maximillian’s, where he had the creative license to hone his skills, incorporating all kinds of European into his cooking. But, like many SA chefs loyal to their state or region, Laing is always influenced by local and seasonal ingredients.

Designing a brunch menu isn’t rocket science. Customers generally lean towards classics and so there’s no need to go crazy here, but this morning we’re shown that with a little refinement, the most important meal of the day can be more than your run-of-the-mill eggs on toast.

In saying that we do start with eggs. Two perfect little poachies, sitting on a split English muffin. But beneath a coat of wholegrain mustard hollandaise (worthy of bottling) hides a combination that takes this spin on Eggs Benedict to an entirely new level. There’s pork cheek that’s been cooked until tender, pulled and then roasted until crispy. This is a new method of cooking pork that I’ll be adopting. Rounds of pickled onions, diced apple and wilted spinach make up the mix, and whether the muffins are store-bought or made in-house isn’t important. This is a dish I’d happily eat again and again.

Eggs benedict with a delicious surprise. Photo: Paul Wood

Nostalgia hits with the next dish: it takes me back to my first trip to Sweden, more specifically to the first morning’s breakfast. Arranged on the plate is our own little smörgåsbord. Slivers of smoked trout, one egg (boiled until firm, and perhaps sliced with one of those plastic and wire egg contraptions) alongside triangles of lightly toasted rye. A selection of condiments includes baby capers, pink pickled segments of radish, diced red onion and a generous dollop of creme fraiche. There are no technical cooking or preparation elements here, and everything tastes as it should in its basic form, but that’s the point. It’s simple, satisfying, and when it all comes together, piled high on that rye toast, delicious.

A simple dish of smoked trout with toasted rye and accompaniments. Photo: Paul Wood

Brunch is usually a one-course affair, and noticeably, there aren’t any real sweet options on the menu, so be prepared to decide between savouries to start your day. But there is a pastry cabinet to satisfy the sweet teeth, and I implore you to extend your morning with the selection or ask nicely to take something away. We do.

Today there’s a brownie, generous in size and beautifully baked, this dense chocolatey and lightly bitter delight is layered with white chocolate chips and topped with a vanilla-infused cream, and then berries and mint. This beats many desserts that have to try harder. Another classic is a citrus tart. This one is a lime-infused curd in a nicely formed, biscuity shell. Fresh lime segments and zest add some intensity and the zingy taste lingers.

While on the topic of tastes that linger, a bonus of eating at Magill Estate Kitchen is that it adjoins the Penfolds cellar door pavilion and for anyone dining, they’ll set you up with their daily wine-tasting selections before, or after your meal.

We run through the lot (including a St Henri, and a 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, not quite a brunch drink, but certainly worth mentioning) while seated in opulent, contemporary surrounds. In this museum-like setting you can also explore the history of this revered brand and historic estate.

But, back to the Magill Estate Kitchen, and today’s delightful brunch. There are some restaurant kitchens that get all kinds of technical, and then there are chefs who know that the key to any good meal is quality ingredients and considered preparation, and, that keeping it simple can be the best plan of attack. Especially in a luxurious place like this. The result is still high-end, without all the fuss.

Now, what’s for lunch?

Magill Estate Kitchen

78 Penfold Road, Rosslyn Park

www.penfolds.com

(08) 8301 5943

Open:

Wednesday – Sunday 9am – 5pm